Surat, located in the Indian state of Gujarat, is not just a bustling commercial hub known for its diamond polishing and textile industries; it’s also a treasure trove of culinary delights. Referred to as “Surti” cuisine, the food of Surat offers a unique blend of flavors, textures, and cooking techniques that distinguish it from other regional cuisines of Gujarat. In Surti cuisine, one can witness an exquisite balance of spicy, sweet, and tangy, often within the same dish, exemplifying the richness of the local culture.
From delectable sweets like Ghari to mouth-watering savories such as Khari, Surti food is an experience that leaves an indelible imprint on the palate, just like the city leaves on the hearts of those who visit.
A Fusion of Flavors
Surti food is famous for its breakfast items like “Locho”, a dish made from gram flour, resembling a softer version of Dhokla, is the local favorite. It is often garnished with chilies, coriander, and sometimes even butter to add richness. Meanwhile, “Surti Sev Khamani” serves as an ideal snack, made by grinding chana dal (split chickpeas) into a paste and then seasoning it with mustard seeds, green chilies, and a topping of fine sev (fried gram flour noodles).
The Role of Tradition and Innovation
The cooking techniques in Surti cuisine demonstrate a blend of tradition and innovation. For example, “Surti Undhiyu”, a mixed vegetable casserole, incorporates a variety of seasonal vegetables and is traditionally cooked upside-down in earthen pots, sealing in a medley of flavors. This dish epitomizes the community aspect of Surti cuisine, as it is most commonly prepared during festivals and family gatherings. Sweets are another hallmark, with dishes like “Surti Ghari”, a sweet dish made of puri batter, milk (mawa), and sugar, filled with goodies like pistachios and almonds, serving as a popular treat.
Traditional Dishes from Surat
Known for its innovative recipes and unique flavors, Surti cuisine features several dishes that have gained fame far beyond the city’s borders.
Ghari
Ghari is a famous sweet dish from Surat, particularly popular during the festival of Chandani Padva. It’s a delectable treat made from puri batter, milk ‘mawa’, sugar, and ghree. Ghari is often filled with dry fruits like pistachios and almonds. Each bite of Ghari is a creamy, nutty experience, which makes it a festival favorite.
Nankhatai
Nankhatai is a type of shortbread biscuit that is part of the Surti culinary lexicon. Made from flour, sugar, ghee, and often flavored with cardamom, these biscuits are baked until they acquire a light golden hue and are typically enjoyed with tea.
Makhania
Surti Makhania is also a type of shortbread biscuit that is more buttery and has a “melt-in-mouth” type consistency. They are not suitable for dip unlike Khari or Sada. Made from flour, salt, ghee, and butter and often flavored with cumin, these biscuits are typically enjoyed alongside chai.
Sev Khamani
Sev Khamani is a popular snack made from chana dal (split chickpeas). The dal is ground into a paste and then cooked with spices and seasoning. It’s often garnished with mustard seeds, curry leaves, green chilies, and topped with crunchy sev. It serves as a perfect teatime snack and can often be found at local eateries and roadside stalls in Surat.
Surti Sada
Surti sada is also a crispy snack or accompaniment that can be served with tea or coffee. The term “Sada” itself means plain or simple, so Surti Sada essentially translates to “Simple Treat from Surat.” It’s made of wheat flour, cumin seeds, iodized salt, and sugar. Surti Sada are savory in taste and has crunchy bite.
Locho
Surti Locho is a popular Gujarati snack and is very similar to Papdi No Lot. Made from gram flour, it’s steam-cooked and served with a variety of chutneys and toppings like coriander and sev. Variations of Locho include cheese Locho, butter spice Locho, and Schezwan Locho, which demonstrate how this traditional dish has adapted over time.
Khari
Khari or Surti Khari is essentially a type of flaky, crispy, and layered puff pastry or biscuit that comes in various flavors and variations. The plain version is lightly salted and mildly spiced, making it an ideal accompaniment for tea or coffee. However, it’s not uncommon to find Surti Khari with additional flavors like cumin seeds, black pepper, or sesame seeds, which add a delightful twist to this classic snack. The versatility and addictive flavor of Surti Khari make it a favorite snack not only in Gujarat but also in various parts of India.
Undhiyu
Undhiyu is a one-pot dish made with a medley of seasonal vegetables like eggplants, sweet potatoes, and various types of beans. What makes the Surti version distinct is its method of cooking and the specific combination of spices used. Traditionally, it’s cooked upside-down in earthen pots, which imparts a unique flavor to the dish.
The Culinary Identity
In essence, Surti cuisine is more than just a list of dishes; it is an integral part of the city’s cultural identity. Whether it’s the lovingly prepared multi-course meals served in homes or the quick bites available at roadside stalls, each offers a taste of Surat’s rich heritage. From delectable sweets to mouth-watering savories, Surti food is an experience that leaves an indelible imprint on the palate, just like the city leaves on the hearts of those who visit.
